Sorrento, Naples & Pompeii

The cold that's been going around finally got to me but it didn't damper my trip south.  We took the train to Naples then Sorrento where our hotel was.  Sorrento - known for it's lemons - was a cute little touristy town on the coast.  We went out for dinner on Friday night to 'Da Emilia'  right at the waters edge.  Fantastic seafood, service and lemoncello.  

Saturday breakfast at 8AM then the Circumvesuviana (the train that goes... around Vesuvius!) to Pompeii.  Pompeii was incredible.  Approx 20,000 people died there in 79AD when Mount Vesuvius erupted and created this time capsule.  Truly awesome - I took a lot of photos.  We only toured about a quarter of this former 'colony' of Rome.   We all (15) raced off back to Sorrento to catch a ferry to Capri (pronounced KAHpree).  Beautiful island.  Dinner and gelato back in Sorrento. 

Sunday:  Up for 8AM breakfast again then the Circumvesuviana to Naples where we had a tour guide show us some of the sites.  Naples is famous for it's churches and pizza.  It is so different from Florence and Rome - much poorer but still beautiful.  Naturally lunch was pizza.   We had to catch the train (Eurostar) back to Florence at 4PM.  Back to study for Italian quiz on Monday.  

Note 1 - all photos above from Pompeii.  Lots more on picasaweb.

Note 2 - Spike Lee in town on Tues. promoting his new movie.  A few folks met him at the press conference.  

Studio l'arte a Firenze!

3 Photos from my walk-about last weekend.  The giant 5 Euro cappuccio... lesson learned.  Don't sit down for a large coffee in a high tourist area.  Busy week with classes.  Projects are starting to pile up.  We have a postcard project using a pangram and the letterpress, a  Memory game project that we have to print two lino cut images.  The class will all do two and we'll create a game and all get a copy in a clam shell box we make.  I have to do a presentation on an alternative processes photographer and print 5 GOOD B&W images for my Symbolism project.  I'm thinking of dropping drawing!   Naples and Pompeii this weekend.  

Karen C and Paula T arrived in Florence yesterday.  Gave them a quick tour of the San Lorenzo Market and a cell phone/internet spot.  Paula forgot her cell phone charger.  Having dinner with them tonight.  

Mike/Michel arrives on this continent today!  So close...and yet so far.  

Must run.  Devo andare! ciao

Photo Meditation

First - we have hot water!  Went out again on Tuesday.  

Second - I forgot how much I loved being in the darkroom!  The smell of the chemicals (true!), the quiet and the rocking of the trays while watching your photo come to life.   I"m happy with how my negatives came out - I seem to remember how to take photos on Manual.  Eccellente!  

Book arts/Printmaking: Sewed up my sketch-notebook with coptic stitch instead of pamphlet.  And made accordion books in class.   Will post photos soon. 

fake foot

The fake foot of David with the Duomo in the background.  

A little old and new, and a paper store NOT open on Sunday morning.  

It rained for most of Saturday so it was a quiet day at 'home' which was nice. Made one excursion later in the day to buy paper but the shop was chiuso (closed).   Skyped Mike and Joe who were in Bayfield... and was feeling a bit lonely.  So checked online for directions to a couple of jazz clubs I heard about, then asked Jessi if she wanted to go check one out.  WE picked the one easiest to find and headed out in the rain.  Pink umbrella purchased en route! 

Found the BeBop Music Club! A little place in a basement.  Band came on at 11PM... and to our surprise it was a Led Zeppelin cover band!!!  Too funny - this long curly haired 'old' rocker guy is yacking away in Italian then breaks into a decent rendition of Ramble On. Had my first mojito at a ridiculous 7 euros!   It was fun but got too hot and loud so left about 12:30.  Couldn't resist trying the baklava at a spot across the street, then home to bed. 

Up early Sunday to take advantage of the sun (non-rain really) to go shoot some film (that's this stuff that people used to put in cameras and have to get developed before seeing their photos- crazy mixed up thing).  Walked and walked:  Duomo, Uffizi, Piazza della Signoria, Santa Croce...   Across the Ponte Vecchio to the old neighbourhood where we stayed in 2003.  Stopped along the way for a croissant and cappuccino (2.20 euros).  And yes, I popped into a few stores along the way too.  Crawled up the $%^&*# stairs around 3:30pm.  

(Photos on picasaweb albums- there's two now. Ask me)

Early supper of gluten free pasta with pesto chicken.  Again, to keep things honest ;-)  I joined in watching an episode of America's Next Top Model on someone's laptop (our TV still doesn't work).  My brain enjoyed the brief mush.   

Tonight's forecast:   10 Celcius!!!!  

holy hail storms

Friday:  WAs out shooting B&W for a project (with my new camera argh) when it got dark and started to thunder and lightening.  Barely got home before this hail storm went over!   

Cooled things off at least. 

 

wine, piazza & just hot

Martedi/Tues... great classes. Found vino shop where return with your bottle and fill it with whichever type you'd like. Had our first communal dinner of salmon, smashed potatoes and caprese salad! 

Mercoledi/Wed.  35 C hot.  Drawing class sitting outside in various piazza drawing statues and fountains.  Two american ladies (new york and new jersey) said they wanted to take art classes after they saw my instructor, Marco.  lol 

giovedi/Thurs.  Forecast for 36C- and felt like it.  Made books (yahoo), sketched in the botanic gardens. Not as nice as Tortola's!  Skipped walking home before my 4:15pm class; instead opted to spend quality time in school (read Air conditioning).  

PAPER! & PROSCUITTO

I still can't believe what I see when I wake up in the morning. 

"Early" class at 9:30.  It's going to be a great course - the biggest so far (12!).  There are only 6 or 7 in my other classes.  Paper paper paper. The instructor, Patricia, first learned bookbinding from a grumpy old Florentine man, who also marbles paper.  We plan to visit his studio/shop & hope it's a good day (ie not too grumpy).   After class I went to a park with one of my flat-mates to sketch for a couple of hours.  Can you believe this is my life?  I can't. 

NExt we went to the Mercato Centrale near our apt.  Bought 3 salmon steaks, some parmigiano reggiano, proscuitto dolce di Parma, candied ginger, strawberries and veggies.  The people are really nice there  - helpful with our pathetic Italian. Especially the old fella who sells produce and blows us a kiss as we leave.  :-)    My lunch in photo: 

Now off to next class then a mandatory Studio Arts Forum.  

PS. I found gluten-free pasta at a market last night! 

.99 Euro Stores!

Very tip of THE Duomo in my armoir mirror.  My new lamp and orchid from IKEA.  

It's true.  They have "Dollar stores".  Not nearly as good as Dollarama, but fun anyway.  Today I got a little lime green clay pot to put the orchid in.  I bought one at IKEA for around 5 Euros.  

Classes - went well.  They went easy on us today.  Italian verbs, shopped for books & dictionary.  Raced across town to other campus (our apt is about half way between) for Drawing class.  We went shopping for supplies.  Ouch.  88 Euros for the basics.  We'll be drawing outside as long as weather permits.  

Tomorrow is Printmaking/ Book Arts, then Experimental Photography.  

Tonight there is a showing of film "Divorce Italian Style".  Oh and I got a letter from Sue in the mail today so the post does work!  :-) 

Up past my bedtime.

I apologize if this is all too much information!  But ...tough.  Ha. 

Last night continued....In the end the girls talked me into going out with them for a drink with the line that it was a pub not a club.  In an attempt at bonding I agreed to go.  We left the apt around 10:30Pm and after some trouble finding the place (it was a hole in the wall) we sat down to a drink in a oddly British pub called Joshua's Tree.  Had a good time (with the exception of the toilet facilities - eeew).  I opted out of continuing on to the next club.  

When I got back to the apartment around 1:30AM I was able to connect/skype with Michel, Andre and Martine in PQ which was great.   

First morning I've been able to sleep in. Lazy day until 5PM  all of us 6 donne (women) took the free shuttle bus that goes to IKEA - the stop is two blocks away!  It was total insanity there today - everyone from Florence was shopping I think.  We all found little things we needed - desk lamps, mats or towels.  Um, and an orchid or two.  

First day of official classes tomorrow.  Buona notte.  

Photos from Giogalto

   Somehow managed to remove most of these photos.  Go to picasa link below to view.  Sorry - technical difficulties. 

try:

http://picasaweb.google.come/svjera31/GypsyAgain?authkey=wXbm8p8IuvY#

On a Bed of Ravioli

Day trip to Giogalto - fabulous.   We took a comfy air-conditioned Mercedes Benz bus at 8:30AM on a 1.5 hour drive to a tiny village (7 houses approx 600 yrs old) where the director of the school grew up.  Her parents are American and her father started the school (in the 70s?).  She lives in Florence though.  The road was fairly insane and I thought of Mike a lot as the motorcycles whizzed by us.  

We had coffee and breakfasty food when we arrived.  Toured the 'village', took photos and picked a bit of lavender.  Next we had cooking lessons.  A French woman showed us how to make this incredible dessert with yogurt, mascarpone,  vanilla wafers & peaches.  Then spinach and ricotta ravioli. Some helped make the dough for the ravioli and fill them.  The little squares get transported to a bed to dry out before they get cooked!  She made sure to tell me that it was a clean sheet! 

 We all took turns helping with the menu:  Three salads, including caprese of course (mozza, tomatoes and basil), bread toasted on the open fire then coated with olive oil and garlic,  pecorino cheese & pears drizzled with honey, grilled chicken, rabbit, pheasant and sausage!  Holy smokes.   Wine (goes without saying really).

It was a great day.  We were going to walk to the nearest village but time ran out and we had to get on our bus waiting at the end of the drive around 5:15PM.   I think everyone fell asleep on the drive back (despite the winding road).  

Walked back to our apt, stopping at the little mercato (market) across the street to get a few things.  Corn Flakes (Kelloggs even), yoghurt, bananas, a Coke, juice, 6 eggs, mozza & chips for 12 Euros.  Then the climbing of the Evil Stairs.  Some of the girls are getting ready to go out to party.  I was invited but.. um well no thanks.  Gonna just relax.  

First Friday in Firenze

Our 70s green couch.  The almost adequate kitchen.  A gelateria on every corner. 


   The Duomo  Duomo front

First Friday in Firenze:

So a few postscripts to earlier post.  It is Louis Vuitton that I couldn't think of.  I will check out the Prada store at some point.  I'm going to have to get a leather bag eventually, but meanwhile got a 12 Euro canvas messenger bag for school.  

We had an Italian Polizia come to give us a talk about being safe in Italy.  He was...."very nice" in his uniform with gun in a white leather holster.  Told us a few things to scare us safe.  Good tips on not getting pick-pocketed.  

Today we watched an Italian film (with subtitles!) in class.  Then went out for gelato.  I had Nutella and Caffe flavours.  We're off until Monday now.  Tomorrow we spend the day at the director's 600 year old villa in the tuscan countryside.  

It's really hot again today so hiding inside the school for a while before heading out again.  Three of my roomies are going to investigate getting wireless at our apt which would be most convenient given the time differences.  One has a boyfriend in China.  Florence gets flooded with 300o foreign students every semester so there is a lot of services for us (cyber cafes, cell phone rentals, etc)  OH and there is an IKEA somewhere... but we aren't sure where yet. Our apt is lacking in a few things.  We only have little kiddie plastic fish bowls, no teaspoons, etc.  

BUT WE HAVE HOTWATER!!!!   life is good.  ...piu tardi

PS. Fake David spotted on route to Gelateria! 

Photos?

The evil stairs! 

Our street 

Our corner

The view from the hall.  And the view from my room!  

Blisters and Culture overload

Haven't had time to add text or photos.  Italian classes and walking tours, eating, drinking...  To keep things honest - cuz it ain't all roses! - there have been a few moments of loneliness and frustration.  It's hot hot hot...so everyone is sleeping with fans 12" from their faces.  Sleep with shutters closed so do get some air.  Mozzies too but they aren't as bad as Tortola.  Yesterday I went home at lunch to change my footwear and eat before the walking tour but couldn't get in.  The locks in Italy are challenging.  You have to put the key in part way, turn, pull door towards you, turn key again, stand on your right foot and .... well, I had no problems when I first got here but now it's a pain. And remember...I"ve just climbed 4 flights of stairs n 30+C...

...OK so that's my rant.  Managed to buy bandages for blisters and a salad for lunch and all is well.  

Today we head over to the Mercato Centrale (huge open air market) to practice our Italian.  Vorrei un etto di parmigiano, per favore.  :-)  

Apartment... share with 5 other girls/women.   It's big and we all have our own rooms down a long hall.  Decent enough kitchen and two bathrooms, living room with TV that we can't get to work.  LOL  The landlord came by last night and fortunately he speaks French!  He showed us how to light the stove (duh) and is coming back today with a guy to fix the hot water heater.  We have a washing machine too but no one has attempted to use it yet.  I have a FANTASTIC view out my window of the dome of the San Lorenzo Basilica.  Sorry if I repeat myself.  Better get a coffee before we head out.  The vending machine at the campus sells them for .60 euros!  

Thanks for reading!! and comments & emails.  xoxo

PS I have a cell phone but can't make outgoing calls or texts for some reason.  TBA...  :-S

Bells of San Lorenzo Basilica

The bells start at 7AM.  :-)  Drumming session on neighbour's rooftop terrace last night.  There are some adjustments to living in the heart of the city.  NO AC in apt and we're still trying to figure out the hot water and the gas on the stove.  Otherwise the apt. is what I expected.  Some of the girls weren't quite prepared for the lack of amenities. 

Legs are sore from all the walking I've done, not to mention that we live on the 4th floor with no lift.  Oof.  Glad I only had one suitcase on arrival!  

Everyone is very nice.  I am feeling...um 'not so young' (10 years older than the Director!).  It's OK though.  

The Strozzi campus is across the street from the Armani store, Fendi, D&G, that guy that does the purses and trunks  (lol).  No I'm not taking history of Italian Fashion.  

Off to sort out my courses... 

Orto de'Medici

I made it!  Flights no problem - Air France is stupendous.  Florence... I'm speechless.  OK not really - it is all that I remember. Magnifico!!   I found my hotel, changed out of my jeans (it was 34C here) and wandered around for hours.  Sunday afternoon there were throngs of people picnicking in the parks and lounging on the grass.  Found the San Lorenzo market....leather!!!!... and had a limone gelato.  Took lots of photos - no time to download/upload yet.  Had a caprese salad and glass of wine on the corner down the street from my hotel.  

This morning the bells from somewhere woke me.  The hotel provided a great breakfast and now I have to get across the street to the school to check in and then find my apartment.  Ciao for now. xo